Manufacture of shoes



April 16,1935. c. ROBERTS 1,998,059

MANUFACTURE OF SHOES Filed June 19, 1955 //v l/E/V 70/2 Patented Apr. 16, 1935 UNITED STATES reason MANUFACTURE OF SHOES Clifford Roberts, Winchester, Mass, 'assignor to United Shoe Machinery Corporation, Paterson, N. J., a corporation of New Jersey Application .l'une 19, 1933, Serial No. 676,440

8 Claims.

This invention relates to improvements in methods of manufacturing shoes, particularly to the securing together with adhesive of the layers of shoe uppers, for example the upper leather and lining.

It is an object of my invention to provide an improved. method by which the layers of a shoe upper may be secured. together with an adhesive after they have been brought into the relation which they are to occupy in the finished shoe, thus reinforcing the upper, as compared with an upper in which layers of the same grades of materials are used without the presence of adhesive between them, and avoiding the tendency to form Wrinkles in the lining which may occur if the layers are cemented together while fiat. Preferably and as illustrated herein the adhesive is in the form of minute separated or discrete particles which may be applied, for example, by spraying the adhesive on the separated surfaces of the layers of the shoe upper.

With the foregoing and other objects in View the invention will now be described in connection with the accompanying drawing and pointed out in the claims.

In the drawing,

Fig. 1 illustrates a shoe upper assembled upon a last, with the vamp portion of the outer layer of the upper separated'from the lining, and the spraying of an adhesive upon the separated surfaces of those layers;

Fig. 2 illustrates the shoe of Fig. 1 after that portion of its upper has been returned to normal position, pulled over and secured in pulledover relation; and

Fig. 3 is a transverse section through the forepart of the completed shoe.

In Fig. 1 the shoe upper 6 is illustrated as assembled upon a last 8 in the usual manner, the insole H] (Fig. 2) being invisible in Fig. 1 by reason of the point of view from which that "figure is drawn. The shoe upper 6 comprises an outer layer 12 of, for example, upper leather and a lining M of any suitable fabric, for example a heavy napped drill the nap surface of which is toward the upper leather. The layers of the upper are stitched together in accordance with usual practice in the manufacture of shoe uppers. Since the illustrated shoe is a pump this stitching is exemplified herein merely as a seam H5 at the top of the upper and a back seam 18 (Fig. 2).

After the insole and upper have been assembled upon a last, the vamp portion, for ex-- ample, of the outer layer of the upper is turned back, as illustrated at 20 (Fig. 1), and a suitable adhesive, for example a rubber latex composition, is sprayed upon the back of the outer layer (as herein illustrated, the upper leather) and/or the exposed surface of the lining, as in- 5 dioated at 72! in Fig. 1, particularly upon the portions of those surfaces which cover the sides and top of the. foot and preferably over substantially the entire: vamp area. Thereafter, before the adhesive has had time to set, the separated portion 2d of the outer layer of the upper is returned to its normal position and the upper is pulled over in the ordinary way, being secured in that condition, as illustrated in Fig. 2,

by tacks 22 in Well-known fashion. Then the side lasting is performed, preferably but not necessarily before the adhesive has had a chance to set. The side lasting may be performed in any desired manner, for example with the aid of a suitable side lasting machine of the character disclosed in Letters Patent of the United States No'. 1,815,297, granted July 21, 1931, on an application filed in the name of George Goddu, which insertsstaples that, as illustrated at 24 (Fig. 3), curve through the substance of 25 the insole lit and are anchored therein without passing completely therethrough.

The shoe is thereafter completed in any desired manner. As illustrated in Fig. 3, its outsole 28 is secured to its insole and to the overlasted 30 marginal portion of its upper by through-andthrough stitching 28. It should be understood, however, that the method of my invention is not limited to use in the manufacture of shoes of the type herein illustrated since, obviously, it may be used in the manufacture of shoes of any type except, of course, those in which the upper. consists of but a single layer.

Preferably the adhesive, applied, as has been described, between the layers of the shoe upper, is in the form of separated discrete particles. Adhesive applied as separated discrete particles, particularly if a napped lining is used with the nap of the lining contacting with the inner surface of the outer layer of the upper, will not have any substantial tendency unduly to stiffen the upper and will cause the upper to have a plump as distinguished from a tinny feel.

Having thus described my invention what I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent of the United States is:

1. That improvement in methods of manufacturing shoes which comprises assembling upon a last an insole and a shoe upper comprising an outer layer and a lining, thereafter separating a portion of the outer layer from the lining, applying adhesive to that portion of the surface of one or both of the separated layers which will cover the sides and top of the foot, returning the outer layer to its normal position before the adhesive has had time to set, and working the upper into lasted relation to the insole and last and securing it in said relation.

2. That improvement in methods of manufacturing shoes which comprises providing a shoe upper the vamp portion of which is provided with a lining stitched to the outer layer of the upper, separating the outer layer of the vamp portion of the upper from the lining, applying adhesive to substantially the entire exposed surface of one or both of said separated layers, returning the layers of the vamp portion to their normal relation, working the upper into lasted relation to an insole and last, and securing it in said relation.

3. That improvement in methods of manufacturing shoes which comprises providing a shoe upper having an outer layer and a lining stitched thereto, separating the outer layer from the lining without disturbing the stitching by which the layers are secured together, applying adhesive in the form of discrete particles to the major portion of the separated surface of one or both of the separated layers, returning the layers to normal position, working the upper into lasted relation to an insole and last, and securing it in said relation.

4. That improvement in methods of manufacturing shoes which comprises providing a shoe upper the vamp portion of which is provided with a lining stitched to the outer layer of the upper, separating the outer layer of the vamp portion of the upper from the lining without disturbing the stitching by which the layers are secured together, spraying an adhesive on substantially the entire exposed sur ace of the lining, returning the layers of the vamp portion to their normal re1ation, and thereafter pulling the upper over and securing it in pulled-over relation to an insole and last.

5. That improvement in methods of manufacturing shoes which comprises securing a shoe upper, the vamp portion of which is provided with a lining, in assembled relation to an insole and last, thereafter separating the outer layer of the vamp portion of the upper from the lining, applying adhesive to the surface of at least those portions of one or both of the separated layers which will cover the sides of the foot, returning the outer layer of the vamp portion to its normal position, and pulling the upper over and securing it in pulled-over relation to the insole and last before the adhesive has had time to set.

6. That improvement in methods of manufacturing shoes which comprises securing a shoe upper, the vamp portion of which is provided with a lining, in assembled relation to an insole and last, thereafter separating the outer layer of the vamp portion of the upper from the lining, spraying an adhesive on the major portion of the exposed surface of the lining, returning the outer layer of the vamp portion to its normal position, and pulling the upper over and securing it in pulled-over relation to the insole and last before the adhesive has had time to set.

7. That improvement in methods of manufacturing shoes which comprises securing a shoe upper, the vamp portion of which is provided with a lining, in assembled relation to an insole and last, thereafter separating the outer layer of the vamp portion of the upper from the lining, applying adhesive in the form of at least those portions of discrete particles to the surface of one or both of the separated layers which will cover the sides of the foot, returning the outer layer of the vamp portion to its normal position, working the upper into lasted relation to the insole and last, and securing it in said relation.

8. That improvement in methods of manufac turing shoes which comprises securing a shoe upper, the vamp portion of which is provided with a lining, in assembled relation to an insole and last, thereafter separating the outer layer of the vamp portion of the upper from the lining, spraying an'adhesive on that portion of the eX- posed surface of the lining which will cover the sides and top of the foot, returning the outer layer of the vamp portion to its normal position and working the upper into lasted relation to the insole and last and securing it in said relation before the adhesive has had time to set.

CLIFFORD ROBERTS.

Parana No. 1,998,659. April 1c. 3935.

CLKFFORB RQBERTS.

it is hereby certified iirai error appears in ihe printed specification of rho above numbered patent requiring correction. as follows: Page 2, second column, iirrcs 27 and 28, ciaim '3', strike out the Words "at ieast those portions oi" and insert the same miter "surface of" in iirrc 2%, of said ciaim; and that the said Lcttcrs ?atem should be read with this correction therein thar the same may conform to the record oi the case in ?sierir @Hicc.

Signed arid seaied this 10th day oi September, A. D. 1935.

Leslie Frazer (Seai) Acting Commissirmcr oi Patents. 

